Introduction
Nestled in the rugged wilderness of western Colorado, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park stands as a testament to the forces of nature. With its sheer cliffs, dramatic gorges, and breathtaking overlooks, this park offers a unique and awe-inspiring experience for visitors. The distance between the South Rim and the North Rim is a mere 1,100 feet at its narrowest point. From the rim, the canyon walls plunge almost 2,000 feet straight down to the Gunnison River. Down by the river, the canyon narrows to a mere 40 feet. The park covers approximately 30,750 acres of wilderness, making it one of the smallest national parks in the US. In 2022, Black Canyon received approximately 300,000 visitors. Surprisingly, it ranks as the least visited national park in Colorado and one of the least visited in the entire US.
The canyon has been a formidable barrier to humans throughout history. Interestingly, even the Ute Indians, who have inhabited the area for centuries, left no evidence of occupation within the gorge itself. In 1933, Black Canyon was proclaimed a national monument. However, it wasn't until 1999 that it achieved national park status. The North Rim Road, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, now graces the US Register of Historic Places.
Black Canyon is home to a diverse array of wildlife including Mule deer, Yellow-bellied marmots Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, elk, and coyotes.
For more information on the park, visit the Wikipedia site.
Top Hikes
These three hikes are good starting points for planning, with at least one more difficult option. Distances and elevation gain are rounded; check the official park trail page for current closures, permits, weather, and trail conditions.
Warner Point Nature Trail (moderate) - 1.5 miles (2.4 km); elevation gain 406 feet (124 m). A short South Rim hike with wide views from near the end of the scenic drive.
Oak Flat Loop (difficult) - 2.0 miles (3.2 km); elevation gain 400 feet (122 m). A steep route below the rim that gives hikers a more intimate look into the canyon.
North Vista Trail to Green Mountain (difficult) - 7.0 miles (11.3 km); elevation gain 1,230 feet (375 m). A North Rim route with excellent canyon views and a more remote feel.
Four of the popular trails are:
Rim Rock Nature Trail: This is my favorite hike in the park. It is an easy/moderate 2 mile (3.2 km) round-trip trail that offers excellent views of the canyon and the Gunnison River. You can take the trail from the Visitor Center or the South Rim Campground.
Oak Flat Loop Trail: A strenuous 2 mile (3.2 km) round-trip trail that takes you below the rim of the canyon and offers variety for hikers who would like to explore the canyon without taking on the challenge of hiking to the river.
Uplands Trail: An easy 1-mile (1.6 km) each way connector trail that links the Rim Rock Trail to the upper Oak Flat Loop Trail near the South Rim Visitor Center. This trail provides a chance to glimpse wildlife when they are most active.
Cedar Point Nature Trail: An easy 2/3-mile (1 km) round trip trail that offers guideposts describing the various plants along the way. At the end are two overlooks offering breathtaking views of the river over 2,000 feet (609 m) below.
The Gunnison Route is an inner-canyon hike on the South Rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. It is recommended for individuals in excellent physical condition who are attempting their first inner-canyon hike. Beware this is not for the faint of heart. The route is strenuous and involves descending (and later hiking back up) 1,800 feet (550 m) elevation in a short period of time (1.5 miles/2.4 km). Visitors are encouraged to come early during the busy summer months to get a wilderness permit. The trailhead begins at the South Rim Visitor Center. Please note that the Gunnison Route is not a maintained or marked trail. Instead, it is an unmarked scramble to the river. Hikers are expected to find their own way and be prepared for self-rescue. Poison ivy is nearly impossible to avoid and can be found growing 5 feet tall along the river.
Please note that drinking water is not available in the park from late fall through mid-spring, so it's advisable to carry sufficient water while hiking. Also, hikers should be aware that limited cattle grazing is permitted on the North Rim, so please keep cattle gates closed should you encounter them. Finally, it's important to be bear aware, as bears have made amazing efforts to obtain hikers' snacks. A bear that becomes habituated to humans and their food will ultimately need to be destroyed.
Scenic Drive
Black Canyon of the Gunnison is divided into the South Rim and North Rim, and there is no bridge or park road connecting the two rims. According to the NPS, driving from one rim to the other requires using roads outside the park and can take more than two hours.
The South Rim is the more developed side of the park. It has a paved scenic drive, the year-round visitor center, hiking trails, ranger programs, and a large campground. The NPS notes that there are 12 overlooks you can visit by car on the South Rim, with additional views available along hiking trails. In winter and early spring, South Rim Drive is closed to vehicles just past the visitor center.
The North Rim is quieter and more primitive. The last 7 miles of the access road and the North Rim Drive are unpaved gravel. The NPS says these roads are usually in good condition and passable for most vehicles in season, but the North Rim is closed to vehicles in winter and early spring. There are 5 overlooks that can be reached by car on the North Rim, with more views along hiking trails.
East Portal Road is another scenic drive option from the South Rim. It descends toward the Gunnison River and the historic Gunnison Tunnel area. The road is paved and two-way, but it is steep and winding. Vehicles over 22 feet, including trailers, are prohibited on East Portal Road.
Use designated pullouts and parking areas when stopping for views. The NPS cautions drivers to watch for steep and narrow roads, potholes, soft shoulders, people walking or bicycling, wildlife, and ice patches.
Fishing
Fishing in Black Canyon of the Gunnison can only be described as incredible. Below are some of the highlights and regulations. The NPS website has the full list of rules.
The Gunnison River within Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is designated as Gold Medal Water & Wild Trout Water by the state wildlife commission because it provides outstanding angling opportunities for large trout. Streams and rivers in Colorado are designated as Gold Medal Waters because they provide outstanding angling opportunities for large trout. Of the more than 9,000 miles (14,454 km) of trout streams in Colorado, only 168 miles (270) are designated as Gold Medal.
Fishing is permitted in the Gunnison River within Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park and within Curecanti National Recreation Area at East Portal (between the closure at Crystal Dam and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park boundary).
Camping
There are three campgrounds serving Black Canyon of the Gunnison: South Rim Campground, North Rim Campground, and East Portal Campground. Reservations are made in advance at recreation.gov. For more information on the campgrounds, please go to the NPS website.
South Rim Campground is located one mile from the South Rim Visitor Center in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. It has 88 campsites for tents, trailers, and RVs, and is open year-round. The campground offers electric hookups in loop B during summer. Sites are partially shaded by Gambel oak and serviceberry bushes. Reservations can be made on recreation.gov for mid-May to mid-October, and it is first-come, first-served after that. Each campsite has a table, fire ring, and grate. The campground is equipped with toilets.
North Rim Campground is located in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. It has 13 first-come, first-served campsites for vehicles up to 22-feet (6.7 m) long. The campground has vault toilets and seasonal drinking water. There are no showers or electric hookups on the North Rim. Each campsite has a table, fire ring, and grill. Food storage lockers are available year-round.
East Portal Campground is located in the Curecanti National Recreation area, next to the national park. There are 15 sites, 10 of them are tent-only. There is no cell reception but there are vault toilets.
Restaurants and Groceries There are no restaurants or grocery stores within Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. The nearest restaurants and hotels are in Montrose, CO, or Gunnison, CO. Western National Parks Association sells some hiking snacks in the bookstore at the South Rim Visitor Center.