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History of the Park

North Cascades National Park is a stunning expanse of wilderness characterized by rugged peaks, lush forests, and a rich history that dates back thousands of years. Established on October 2, 1968, the park spans covers an area of approximately 504,654 acres (2,042.26 km²), making it one of the larger national parks in the United States. It includes a northern and southern section, bisected by the Skagit River, and is bordered by Ross Lake National Recreation Area and Lake Chelan National Recreation Area. The park's altitude ranges from 605 feet (184 m) at Goodell Creek to 9,220 feet (2,810 m) at Goode Mountain. This variation in elevation contributes to a diverse climate, with the western part of the park receiving heavy precipitation and fostering lush forests, while the eastern areas experience a rain shadow effect, leading to drier conditions. In 2021, the park had around 17,855 visitors, a number that is low but reflects the park's remote nature and limited accessibility

The region was first inhabited by Paleo-Indian Native Americans, with the Skagit tribes residing in the area by the time European American explorers arrived. The early 19th century saw fur trappers and traders from British and American companies exploring the region. The Canada–United States border was established at the 49th parallel in 1846, leading to further exploration for potential routes through the mountains.

The environmental impact began in the 1920s with the construction of several dams in the Skagit River valley for hydroelectric power. This led to campaigns by environmentalists to preserve the remaining wilderness, culminating in the designation of North Cascades National Park in 1968.

The park offers many attractions for visitors. Scenic drives along the North Cascades Highway provide breathtaking views, while trails like the Sterling Munro Trail and Diablo Lake Vista Point offer opportunities for hiking and wildlife viewing. The Washington Pass Overlook presents a panoramic view of the surrounding peaks, and the remote town of Stehekin serves as a gateway for further exploration into the park's interior.

North Cascades is home to a rich array of wildlife, including approximately 75 mammal species, 200 species of birds, 28 species of fish, and a vast number of invertebrates. Notable mammals include the elusive gray wolf, grizzly bear, and Canada lynx, as well as more commonly sighted animals like black-tailed deer and hoary marmots.

For more information go to the park's Wikipedia page.  For a map of the park, go to the NPS site.

Day Hikes and Backpacking

Day hikes in North Cascades National Park is a great way to explore the natural wonders of the park. The vast majority of good day hikes require a lot of elevation gain.  There are both black bears and grizzly bears in the park.  It is recommended you make noise to let them know you are around and bring bear spray (how to use bear spray). The hikes below are fairly difficult.  There are easier hikes that can be found at the NPS website.  Here are some of the most popular and scenic hikes in the park, along with their distance, elevation gain, and trailhead information.

The top long day hikes in North Cascades National Park are renowned for their stunning views and challenging terrain. Here are four of the best:

Easy Pass-Fisher Creek Trail is known for its beautiful vistas of Fisher Basin and the surrounding peaks. Despite its name, the trail is quite challenging, with steep switchbacks and loose rock. It is a 7 mile (11.2 km) round-trip hike with an elevation gain of 2,800 feet (853 m).  It's a strenuous hike that takes you through diverse environments, from forested areas to alpine meadows filled with wildflowers, especially vibrant in spring and early summer.  The trailhead is located off State Route 20 at mile 151, on the south side of the highway. A US Forest Service Northwest Forest Pass is required to park here.

As you ascend, you'll be greeted by panoramic views of Fisher Basin and Mounts Logan, Fisher, and Arriva. The area is also known for its wildlife, including mountain goats, pikas, and hoary marmots. In autumn, the golden larches make the scenery even more spectacular¹.

The Cascade Pass Trail is well known for its spectacular views of peaks and glaciers. It climbs steadily to the pass, providing vistas of notable peaks such as Eldorado, Johannesburg, Magic, Mixup, and McGregor. The trail is the shortest and easiest access in the park to the alpine environment, making it the most popular day hike in the national park.  The trail is 7.4 miles (12 km) round-trip with an elevation gain of 1,700 feet (550 m).  Access to the trail is via the Cascade River Road, which leaves State Route 20 at Marblemount and extends 23.1 miles (37 km) to the trailhead. The road is paved initially and then becomes gravel, with some narrow and steep sections near the end.  For anyone who wish to extend their hike, the Sahale Arm Trail continues from Cascade Pass, ascending steeply through subalpine meadows and talus fields to the base of the Sahale Glacier.

The Thornton Lake Trail offers views of Triumph Peak and lower Thornton Lake. The ridge above the lake provides a vantage point for panoramic views of the surrounding area.

The trail begins with a gentle grade along an old road, which can be brushy, and then climbs steadily through a mature hemlock forest. As you approach the ridge, the environment opens up to heather and huckleberry meadows before descending to Thornton Lake. The descent is steep, often muddy, and slippery, with a scramble over rocks and floating logs to reach the lake. The trailhead is accessible via the Thornton Lakes Road, which is 11 miles (18 km) east of Marblemount on State Route 20. The road to the trailhead is rough and steep in sections, not recommended for low-clearance vehicles or trailers.

Round trip the trail is 10.4 miles (16.8 km) with an elevation gain 2,400 feet (731 m), followed by a loss of 500 feet (152 meters) to descend to the lake.

The Sourdough Mountain Trail is one of the most difficult hikes in North Cascades National Park. The summit of Sourdough Mountain offers a historic lookout with 360-degree views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers. The vistas include Mount Prophet, Hozomeen Mountain, Jack Mountain, the Picket Range, and the turquoise waters of Diablo Lake.  The trail can be accessed from two points. The Diablo approach starts at mile 126 on State Route 20, near the town of Diablo. Park next to the river, across from the domed swimming pool, and the trail begins behind the swimming pool. The Pierce Mountain side can be accessed from the Ross Dam Trailhead at mile 134 on State Route 20. To Sourdough Lookout: 5.2 miles (8.4 km) one way with an elevation gain of 4870 feet (1484 m).

Backpacking

North Cascades National Park offers something for everyone when it comes to backpacking.  There are short trips, multi-day trips and bushwaching.  This is active bear area.  Plan on bringing bear spray and know how to use it.  Just so you are prepared, there are no flat backpacking hikes within the park.  Be prepared for elevation gain.  The NPS provides a map of the different trails.  Permits are required.  Go to recreation.gov for more information. Below are our favorite hikes in the park.

The Chain Lakes Loop is renowned for its panoramic views of Mounts Baker and Shuksan, as well as the encompassing North Cascades. Hikers can enjoy alpine lakes perfect for swimming, well-maintained trails through meadows and heather, and an abundance of wildflowers in spring, blueberries in late summer, and vibrant colors in the fall. Start the hike at Artist Point parking lot off of Mount Baker Highway and the Austin Pass picnic area. Along the way, you'll encounter beautiful blue lakes of various sizes, such as Iceberg Lake and Bagley Lakes, which feature campsites, beaches, and are great for swimming. The loop is approximately 6.5 miles (10.46 km) long and has an elevation gain 1,820 feet (555 m).

Cascade Pass and Sahale Arm Trail hike goes through subalpine meadows and talus fields to the base of Sahale Glacier, offering expansive views of peaks and glaciers.  The trail head we used was from Cascade River Road.  The views of Sahale Mountain, Doubtful Lake, and glacier views are incredible.  The hike is 12.0 miles (19.3 km) roundtrip, with an elevation gain of 4,000 feet (1,219 ).

Eldorado Peak is a challenging climb along a knife's edge to Eldorado Peak, requiring climbing experience and equipment.  The peak is referred to as the “Queen of the Cascade River” with incredible views of Marble Creek, Dorado Needle and other peaks of the Ptarmigan Traverse.  This hike traverses glaciers so you will need to proper equipment.  Please talk to a park ranger before leaving.  Trailhead is located at  North Cascades Highway - Hwy 20. The hike is 10.0 miles (16.1 km) roundtrip, with an elevation gain of 6,716 feet (2,047 m).

Campgrounds

There are five campgrounds and one group campground within the park.  All campgrounds along state route 20 can be made in advance.  Make reservations as early as possible, sites go quickly.  Go to recreation.gov to make reservations.

 Newhalem Creek Campground is close to the town of Newhalem, WA and the Skagit River.  The campground has 107 sites, 13 reserved for tents.  There is cell phone reception, dump station, flush toilets and potable water.  

Colonial Creek North Campground is located in an old growth forest.  It is located near mile mark 130 along state 20.  There are 41 reservable campsites, with 10 tent only sites.   There is potable water but no cell phone reception or dump station. 

Gorge Lake Campground is located on the Gorge Lake, next to the cascading Statattle Creek.  There are 8 sites, which are tent-only.

Goodell Creek Campground is located in an old growth forest along the Skagit River.  There are 19 sites tha can fit small RVs can fit, but space is limited.  There is cell service and potable water.

Colonial Creek South has 96 sites, 19 reserved for tents.  Tent sites are first-come, first-served.  There is no cell phone reception or dump station.   There is potable water and toilets.

Lower Goodell Creek Group Campground has two sites.  Each site can have 50 people and 20 vehicles.  There is no cell reception, water or dump station at the campground.