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Introduction to the Park

Rocky Mountain National Park is a spectacular mountainous region located in north-central Colorado, USA. Around 11,000 years ago, humans began venturing into the valleys and mountains of this area. The native Ute tribe favored the green valleys, tundra meadows, and crystal lakes. Although the Utes didn’t reside here year-round, they appreciated the natural beauty of the region.  Spanish explorers and French fur trappers skirted the area during their wilderness forays. Major Stephen H. Long, after whom the peak is named, avoided these rugged barricades during his famous 1820 expedition. In 1843, Rufus Sage wrote the first account of Rocky’s wonders in a book called “Scenes in the Rocky Mountains.”. Word began to spread about the majestic landscape with its mountains and flowing streams.

The Pikes Peak gold rush of 1859 attracted miners and speculators to the region. Settlements like Lulu City (now part of the northwest part of the park) were established but proved temporary. In the 1860s, an industrious homesteading period began. Harsh winters made grazing difficult, but the abundant wildlife continued to draw Easterners.

By 1900, the national conservation and preservation movement gained momentum, led by figures like Theodore Roosevelt, Gifford Pinchot, and John Muir. The Estes Park Protective and Improvement Association advocated for local conservation efforts.  Enos Mills, a naturalist, nature guide, and lodge owner, championed the creation of the nation’s tenth national park. He tirelessly lobbied Congress, hoping that future generations would find rest and hope in this pristine park. On January 26, 1915, President Woodrow Wilson signed the Rocky Mountain National Park Act, officially establishing the park.

Today, Rocky Mountain National Park covers an area of 415 square miles (1,070 square km), featuring glacier-carved valleys, alpine lakes, and plunging streams.  The park is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.  For more information, please go to the park's Wikipidea site.

Hiking

There are 355 miles (571 km) of trail in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Please keep in mind the park elevations range from 7,500 feet (2,286 m) to 12,500 feet (3,810 m).  It is important to climatize to the altitude before starting off on a hike.  The general rule is three full days at altitude will "generally" climitize the body.  Make sure you bring plenty of water, high altitudes will dehydrate a body quickly.  As with all high altitude areas, make sure you bring layers of clothing.  Good idea to use sun screen, ultra violet rays are higher in the mountains. Lastly, if there is a chance of thunderstorms be prepare to return to trailhead as soon as possible.

 Day Hikes

There are many day hikes within the park.  The NPS website has the full list.  Below are my personal favorites.  They are a bit longer than the tourist hikes but well worth it.

The Mills Lake takes you to the serene Mills Lake, nestled amidst the stunning alpine scenery. The hike is 5.2 miles round-trip (8.4 km) with an elevation gain of 826 feet.  The trailhead is at the end of Bear Lake Road. The iconic Mills Lake sits at the top of Glacier Gorge, and this route takes you past several other popular destinations within Rocky Mountain National Park. Along the way, you’ll pass Alberta Falls and Glacier Falls before reaching the tranquil Mills Lake. Be aware, this hike is very popular during the summer months.

Gem Lake Hike is 3.4 miles round-trip (5.5 km) and has an elevation gain of 830 feet (253 m).  The trailhead is at Lumpy Ridge Trailhead.  Gem Lake is a hidden gem tucked away in the vast field of granite domes that comprise the Lumpy Ridge area. Unlike many other lakes, Gem Lake doesn’t have an inlet or outlet stream. It’s a shallow pond filled strictly by trapped snowmelt and rainfall. Along the way, take in the sweeping views of Estes Park, Longs Peak, and the Continental Divide. Gem Lake is a short but strenuous hike, making it family-friendly and suitable for acclimatizing to Colorado’s elevation.

Ypsilon Lake Hike is 9 miles round-trip (14.4 km) with an elevation gain of  2,180 feet (664 m).  The trailhead is at Lawn Lake Trailhead. During the first mile, hikers will trek along the edge of a sharp ravine. Created when the Lawn Lake Dam burst on July 15, 1982, the ravine is a testament to the amazing power of water. The trail then climbs upward with switchbacks and through a forested trail. The last quarter mile descends to the scenic and secluded Ypsilon Lake.

Estes Cone Hike is 6.5 miles round-trip (10.5 km) and has an elevation gain of 1,790 feet (545 m).  The trailhead is at Longs Peak Trailhead.  Estes Cone is a difficult hike to the top of a distinct and recognizable cone-shaped mountain in the southeastern portion of the park. The hike begins moderately to the base of the cone, passing the historic Eugenia mine and an old homestead along the way. Once at the base, the hike becomes steep and strenuous as you switchback and scramble to the top. At the summit, you’ll be rewarded with amazing panoramic views of the Continental Divide and Longs Peak.

Chasm Lake Hike is 8.4 miles (13.6 km) with an elevation gain of 2,390 feet (728 m).  The trailhead is at Longs Peak Trailhead.  Chasm Lake offers spectacular views just below the famous Long’s Peak, the highest peak in the park. Start this trail at the Longs Peak Trailhead at 9,400 feet (2,865 m) and steadily climb through a subalpine forest up to the alpine tundra. Along the way, you’ll cross a vast tundra meadow of rocks, fragile plant and keep an eye out for marmots and pikas. Since this trail is completely exposed for half of the hike, it is best to go in the morning before thunderstorms, and during the heart of summer to avoid snowfields that can linger in spring and autumn. At the Chasm Junction, there is an outhouse available. Follow the trail along a wall that offers views into a deep gorge of Peacock Pool and Columbine Falls. After this, the trail turns to rock, and you may need to use cairns to do easy rock climbing up the cirque to where the lake is located.

Backpacking

Here are my three top backpacking hikes. Permits and bear proof food canisters are required.  Campfires are prohibited and make sure to purify all water.

Bear Lake to Fern Lake Trailhead is 17 miles round trip with an elevation gain of 1,180 feet (360 m).  The trailhead is located at Bear Lake Trailhead.  This intermediate trek takes you through wooded alpine terrain, past meadows, and alongside lakes. Enjoy views of the beautiful mountains as you ascend gently. Camping spots are available along the route, making it perfect for a night out or an introduction to backpacking.

Timber Lake Trail is 9.3 miles round trip (15 km) with an elevation gain of 2,012 feet (613 m). The 4.5-mile hike to Timber Lake is perfect for a spur-of-the-moment night out.  The trailhead is located at the Timber Lake trailhead. Wildlife is abundant and fishing is good. 

East Inlet Trail is 10.3 miles (16.6 km) hike with an elevation gain of 1,794 feet (547 m). This trail takes you through a jaw-dropping valley, rolling over to two family-friendly destinations, the Adams Falls overlook and a spectacular valley viewpoint, before tucking into a pine-strewn forest and veering uphill. The trailhead is at Lone Pine Lake via East Inlet Trailhead. Lone Pine Lake sits above Grand Lake at over 9,500 feet, making it a serene destination along this trail.

Fishing

Sport fishing is a cherished pastime here, where the angler’s heart aligns with the rhythm of flowing rivers. Since the 1970s, the park has diligently worked to restore native cutthroat trout populations. Today, the parks host a diverse trout community, including brown, brook, rainbow, and cutthroat (both Colorado River and Yellowstone) trout, as well as the humble suckers and sculpin.  However, many of the park’s high-altitude lakes remain pristine and devoid of fish due to their cold waters and limited spawning habitats.

Popular areas include the Big Thompson River, its waters winding through pine-clad valleys. Here, you can find rainbow and brown trout.  On the northern part of the park, the Roaring River, a remote gem where elusive greenback cutthroats thrive. Popular lake fishing includes Mills Lake, Sky Pond, Emerald Lake and Dream Lake.

Colorado fishing license are required if you are 16 or older. No other permit is needed, but heed the special regulations that safeguard these waters.  Each angler can have a single hand-held rod or line. No "Second Rod Stamp" in accepted within the park.  

During the winter season, fishing is allowed in designated areas.  Hand augers are permitted.

For all the regulations and places to fish go to the NPS Site.

Camping / Lodging

There are five campgrounds within the park.  Four are located on the east side and one on the west, with Moraine closed for 2024.   Reservations can be made six months in advance for summer stays at recreation.gov.

East Side Campgrounds

Aspenglen Campground has 52 sites, with 13 dedicated to tents.  There is no cell reception, showers, dump station or potable water.  There are portable toilets during the summer.

Glacier Basin Campground has 150 sites, with 73 reserved for tents.  There is no cell reception, showers or potable water.  There are flush toilets and a dump station during the summer.

Longs Peak Campground has 26 tent only campsites. There is no cell reception, showers or potable water.   There are vault toilets.  The campground is at 9,500 feet (3,000 m) of elevation.

Moraine Park Campground  is closed for a major rehabilation project.  

West Side Campground

Timber Creek Campground has 98 sites, with 30 reserved for tents.  There is no cell reception.  This campground is only open during the summer.  A dump station, flush toilets and potable water are available at the campground.

Lodging

There are no lodges within the park.  However, Estes Park and Granby offer many accommodations.